Around (most of) the world in 209 days!

After a long a dubious border cross from Northern Thailand we eventually arrived in Luang Prabang. The small monestry town perched quietly along the mekong in the North of Loas. Luang Prabang is a sumptous mecca of buddhist culture and beautiful French colonial styled guesthouses. A training ground for young monks the town is littered with children as young as 5 drapped in bright orange robes and peaceful temples can be found around almost every corner. Arriving at the crack of dawn we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the young monks collecting arms before sunrise, hundreds of them - barefooted - filled the streets as locals passed them small balls of rice. In the buddhist religion they are only allowed to eat what is given to them and so every morning before sunrise they descended onto the quite streets of Luang Prabang to collect the offerings of the generous locals.

Perhaps one of the most memorable days of my journey was when the girls and I decided to rent a bike and just ride around the town and visit some of the temples a little further out from the main tourist stretch. Having not riden a bike for at least 10 years I was a little worried to say the least at the prospect of cycling for a whole day amongst the notoriously busy South East Asian roads. But Luang Prabang was different, the roads were flat and virtually emptry with only a few slow moving motocycles and old cars passing periodically. The soft, cooling breeze as we rode along the mekong river was refreshing and relaxing and the views were absolutely stunning. A little further out we stopped at a temple which seemed to have a lot of comotion going on outside. Locking up our bikes and peeking in we discovered a huddle of elderly Loas women and monks busily making decorations from bright orange flowers and deep green leaves. We were the only visitors and they pretty much ignored our presence, they were clearly very busy and very focused. A few of the young monks later approached us by our bikes, a little embarressed and not quite sure of the proper monk/westerner etiquete we spoke with them for a while and were surprised that they were just as every bit curious about us as we were about them. We even exchanged emails and agreed to send them the photos we had taken.

Later that evening we treated ourselves to foot massages and cocktails. Definately one of the best days yet!

After arriving in Hanoi a few days ahead of out plans we jumped straight into the Vietnamese experience, getting lost along its small, narrow streets filled with motorbikes and locals perched on tiny plastic chairs only a foot from the floor. In fact, that night we found ourselves joining them with a traditional Vietnamese hotpot - raw meat, veg, rice and seasonings served on a small plate and cooked by us. Esther's face was a picture, she hated being close to the floor which only added to the amusement of it all for Ruth and I!

When the weather had cheered u a bit, but only slightly (still miserable), we set off for the real attraction of Hanoi - HALONG BAY! Since the weather had left a lot to be desired and much of Hanoi had turned from the busy and buzzing city that I remembered four years ago into somewhat of a ghosttown for Tet (Vietnamese New Year) the trip to the Halong completely lifted our spirits. Hopping on a 'Junk' boat we embarked on a two day/one night tour of the Bay. We were not dissapointed. After visiting some interesting caves I was absoultely stunned by the spectacular views of the Bay. Hanoi - I had read on a trip to the museum meant ascending dragon. Halong - as I guide told us meant descending dragon. The ancient Vietnamese legend said that the King had seen a dragon acend from the grounds surrounding what is now the city of Hanoi, when the Vietnamese were defending the city against the Chinese to the north he claimed he saw the dragon sacrifrice itself by dramatically crashing into a bay and forming a trail of tall rocks that prevented the Chinese from navigating their ships to the Vietnamese capital. It was a pretty spectacular story but such an amazing landscape deserved no less. I just regret that my photography skills are just not up to the standard required to be a real representation but hopefully it will give you a little idea!

OK so having been in China for almost a week now and seen some amazing sights and scenery I feel like I should explain one of the most frustrating things about traveling in China. The language barrier, no scrap that. The Language BLOCKADE! I mean I have traveled around Asia, Europe and South America and encountered many different non English speaking cultures therefore I thought I was relatively well prepared for China, I mean they are a fast developing economy, with a sharp cultural focus on education - most of course wont speak english but some must. I mean it wasn't like I was going inland to a rural Chinese village, I was in Beijing, Shanghai. Someone must speak at least a little English. I've never been so WRONG!!!

China is probably the most fascinating county I have ever visited, though it is difficult to really explain. In one day I could go from absolutely outraged to inspired, astonished, jubilant and confused. The list of adjectives could go on but you get the drift. When I decided to visit China alone I thought it would be one of the most challenging experiences of my life and that I would have to be the most self dependent I have ever been...I was half right. It was, as i've already mentioned, challenging, but I have never felt so DE-pendent! Everyday, after carefully planning my itinerary from the LP and friends recommendations I would approach my hostel reception and explain what I wanted to see and do. They would then proceed to give (or draw) me a map complete with highlighted buildings and routes, which buses, bus stops, trains and station to go to in both English, and more importantly, Chinese. I would then brave the streets of Beijing, Shanghai or whatever town I was residing and proceed to tap a local on the shoulder, hand them my hand drawn map and Chinese address and wait for them to kindly lead me to my destination. I really felt ridiculous! Though that's the thing, people were more or less always happy to help - perhaps they felt sorry for me, but regardless I couldn't of done it without the kindness of Chinese strangers.

On the other hand, I would be pulling my hair out as I was constantly barged from a queue or stared at on the metro. Not to mention all the spitting and the strange willingness to leave toilet doors open while in use - EW. That's naming a few! My friend I met while in Shanghai told me 'China is really a love hate story...but you are guaranteed to see something strange everyday!' The quote really does some it up. I'm not sure if China has been my most enjoyable trip so far but certainly one of the more interesting!

After catching a flight down from Shaghai I arrived in the relatively small city of Guilin which would be my base for a trip to the scenic countryside town of Yangshou. Unfortunately the weather was still cold and rainy but the town was a welcome break from the buzzing syreets of Beijing and Shanghai. The following morning I embarked on a day tour which took us on a small boat down the Li river. The views were spectacular. With the exception of our boats and the occasional local fisherman, the water was complelety still and the mountanous views gently reflected against it creating a surreal ink blot picture that these photos only capyure a glimmer of!

Following the river we were guided through the small villiage and local huts where we fed the local waterbuffalo. A small babmdo raft then floated dpwn another part of the river where we saw a fisherman using the ancient technique of training birds to catch their fish - it was truely impressive and apparently it takes them up to 5 years to train each bird!

Picture 711

Later that evening I explored Yanghou and Western street for a nice meal and some shopping before I lefy China. I managed to haggle down two traditional Chinese teapots and a chopstick set down from 35 pounds to 12 - I love haggling!!

After a handful of trains and buses, including one no-show, I arrived in Hong Kong. Exhausted! Luckily two vursts of energy in the form of Ether and Ruth came along later that afternoon to lift my spirits. It was such a relief to see them and its already so much better having them around! We made the most of the new year by drinking beer and playing uno, visiting the New Years day parade and most memorably watching the Fireworks display from a rooftop that our friendly hostel manager had arranged for us and the other guests.

So for the second leg of my travels I arrived, solo, in China. I was immediately overwhelmed by the sheer amount of people that flooded from the airport and into the streets of Beijing. Having fought my way to the taxi rink I soon arrived outside one of the Chinese 'hutong' (alleyways) just a short walk away from the forbidden city. The hostel (rated number one in the world at one point) didn't disappoint, beautifully decorated and full of character the courtyard was a peaceful and welcoming retreat from the crowded streets of Beijing. I settled in ready for my Chinese adventure to begin!

Jet-lagged, I woke up early the next morning and headed to The Summer Palace. I was immediately greeted by elderly Chinese singing, dancing and practicing Taichi in the surrounding park despite the toe-numbing temperature. So glad that I bought my thermals! The Summer Palace is truly an amazing example of Chinese landscape and design, in the centre is a huge lake which was mostly frozen over and complemented by spectacular pavilions, halls, palaces, temples and bridges which made it a real pleasure to explore. I particularly liked the Temple of Burning Incense which stands high above the palace grounds and offers a great view of the beautiful scenery. Feeling inspired I spent the day practicing my photography skills - I fitted right in with the other Chinese tourists!

After grabbing a quick snack and having spent almost five hours at the palace I headed over to the Lama temple before sundown. I couldn't help but be reminded of my previous trip to Hue in Vietnam, the traditional Chinese architecture and the smell of burning incense was both peaceful and provoking. Having read in my trusty lonely planet that a whopping 70% of Chinese were atheist I was a little surprised to see so many people praying to the giant sandle-wood Buddha that stood at a record breaking 26 metres high. All together found my first day to be really better than I had even imagined and definitely more tiring!

The next morning I awoke at stupid o'clock to catch a bus tour to undoubtedly the most famous Chinese landmark - THE GREAT WALL! I chose to take the longer, hiking tour from Jingshanling. The area is the best preserved and one the most desolate parts of the wall and so required a pretty awful 3 hour bus journey from Beijing in the freezing cold, but it was well worth it. When we arrived we were the only ones, with the exception of some local Mongolian farmers, in sight. The view was spectacular and surreal, I still find the whole concept of the wall to be perplexing - I mean who thinks to build a giant wall over 8,000km long across mountainous terrain to protect themselves from their enemy?! Still, it was a truly breathtaking sight and i'm glad I took the time to explore it a little more of the beaten track, well beaten wall!

On the third day of my trip I hit another two 'must sees' on the Beijing city list. In the morning I hoped on the bus - armed with a and drawn map and Chinese address from my hostel - and made it to the temple of heaven. More of a park than a temple it was nice to once again to be greeted by the sights and sounds of elderly Chinese singing, doing Taichi and playing cards. In the afternoon I visited Behai Park to witness the sunset over the pavilions and catch a good view of the forbidden city from the towering pagoda overseeing central Beijing.

Returning to the hostel for some tasty spicy chicken and rice I met a friendly couple from Washington DC, Vanessa and Eric had just spent a week in China and were spending the next few days in the capital before they headed back home to college. They mentioned they were going to the night market the following evening and invited me along. I have to say, though they have their annoying moments I found the Americans the most friendly and welcoming by far. I'm looking forward to practicing my bartering skills before I hit Thailand later and apparently they serve all kinds of weird food so it looks like it will be interesting. Really looking forward to it!